Once upon a time, there lived a designer duo who reinvigorated the world with their fashion expertise. From uplifting chikankari embroidery to couture status and infusing artisanal craft with modern aesthetics, the designers became notorious for their glitz and glamorous styles. They might have met due to work for designer Xerxes Bhathena, but destiny had something else stored for them. Being complete opposites to each other but having the same thirst and passion for craft and fashion gave them the push to venture together. And that’s how the pret label ‘Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’ came into existence in 1986, co-owned by the pioneers of the Indian fashion industry, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla.
The tale of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla is timeless and very much prominent. Their first boutique in Juhu, Mumbai, witnessed their rise to the pinnacle of India’s leading couture house after their debut collection, ‘Mata Hari’. Clients and customers poured in since their first success together, with actress Dimple Kapadia being the very first celebrity client, followed by Jaya Bachchan, Parmeshwar Godrej and so on.
After being featured on the cover of the prestigious Bombay magazine, the luxury designer duo came into the limelight. They went on to style the Raymond fabrics campaign and also became costume designers for renowned Bollywood actresses, including Amrita Singh, Madhuri Dixit, Dimple Kapadia and Sonu Walia, to mention a few.
When we think of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, artisanal embroideries, embellishments, mirror work and bright hues strike our minds. And rightly so, since their design features the luxury jazz that’s created on finely created luxe fabrics such as georgette, chiffon, organza and so on. Reviving ancient craft, though, tops the list.
They envisioned chikankari embroidery on the highest couture level and made it a reality. Twenty years of intensive training to the artisans, research and development and sourcing vintage blocks for printing patterns generated its roots in the city of Nawabs, Lucknow – chikankari embroidery is now in demand like anything before, all due to their consistent efforts. Their first chikankari bridal work was for Shweta Bachchan Nanda’s mehendi ceremony outfit in 1997.
That’s not all; they reinvented zardozi and tharad work with their maximal vision, of course. During one trip to Amritsar in the late 1980s to design a profitable line for Harrods, the duo bought woollen shawls and recreated them with zardozi embroidery, which instantly became popular. Another reinvention of the duo is their signature gota work which began with Martand Singh’s Khadi exhibition.
Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla are not called trendsetters without reason. In 1987, they revived dhoti pants with pure fabrics and zardozi embroidery, and it sure did create a trend in every fashion street, selling on mass levels. Apart from that, they also introduced the concept of double sarees, crushed cotton and silk, and the iconic Miniatures collection.
As the name suggests, the double sarees encompass seamlessly draping two complementary coloured sarees at once, forming an entirely new silhouette. The Miniature collection consisted of embroideries in a necklace style inspired by Indian miniature paintings. This scintillating collection was an ode to art; thus, appliqued images covered with a small glass frame featuring intricate bead detailing formed its ethos. Sonam Kapoor, the fashionista of B-town, wore the recreated version of this 1989 collection in her 2018 released film, ‘Veere de Wedding’. And if you thought that’s it, then think again because Rhea Kapoor being a massive fan of AJSK herself, decided to use their designs in the same film with the other three leading ladies too. They haven’t toned down at all after their big hit with ‘Devdas’ costumes.
With ASAL by Abu Sandeep, they ventured into the world of bridal couture. From bakhiya and resham embroidery to architectural inspirations and mirror work, their designs miraged shimmery bejewelled tones. Their status in the industry is unrivalled, as seen in their recent star-studded premiere night for their latest fashion film, “Mera Noor Hai Mashoor.” What a banging success with all Bollywood celebrities, creators and influencers attending it under one roof.
The designer duo is not only popular in their homeland but internationally too. They established their global presence with celebrities like Shakira Caine, Princess Michael, Liza Minelli, etc. Recently at the NMACC event, Gigi Hadid dazzled in a chikankari skirt draped saree and South Indian cropped sleeve jacket blouse by the designer. Safe to say, she was utterly delighted with the ensemble.
Beyonce in AJSK gown at Isha Ambani’s wedding
Gigi Hadid in AJSK chikankari draped saree set at NMACC
Such iconic collections are worth all the attention, and you can discover similar pre-loved styles of Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla’s on Revivify.
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